Homeward Bound: From Ancient Echoes to Modern Valor (Day 7)

​Day 7 marked the beginning of our return leg from Hanle to Leh. After six days of scaling passes and crossing deserts, the journey back felt reflective. We started our day at the perfect hour, the RE Himalayans and the Innova Crysta ready for one more day of conquering the winding Ladakhi veins.

​The 400-Year-Old Hanle Monastery

Our first stop was a brief but spiritual one at the Hanle Monastery. Perched on a hilltop overlooking the valley, this 17th-century gompa belongs to the Drukpa lineage and has stood as a silent guardian of the trade routes for over 400 years. We paid our homage in the quiet prayer halls, surrounded by ancient murals and the scent of juniper. The serenity of the morning, coupled with the panoramic view of the Hanle plains from the monastery courtyard, was the perfect way to center ourselves before the long drive ahead.

​Chumathang Hot Springs

As we descended toward the Indus River, we stopped at Chumathang, famous for its natural hot springs. It’s a surreal sight—boiling water bubbling up from the earth right next to the icy, rushing flow of the river. We took a quick break here to feel the steam and capture some riverside shots. The contrast of the hot sulphur springs against the cold mountain air is one of those geological wonders that makes Ladakh so unique. It was a refreshing pause that prepared us for the final "curvaceous" stretch back to Leh.

​The Hall of Fame: Light and Sound Show

​We reached Leh with enough time to catch a highlight we’d been looking forward to: the Evening Light and Sound Show at the Hall of Fame. If the museum visit on Day 1 was interesting, this 45-minute show was absolutely exhilarating. With the silhouetted mountain range as a backdrop and the profound silence of the Ladakhi night, the narration brought the history of the Indian Army to life. Hearing about the invincible prowess and the sacrifices of our soldiers over the decades was deeply moving. It felt like a true testament to the spirit of the land we had spent the last week exploring.

​The Final Evening

​We ended our day back at our hotel in Leh, enjoying a final group dinner. There’s a bittersweet feeling in the air tonight. We’ve covered thousands of feet in altitude, witnessed the Milky Way, and stood at the highest road in the world. Tomorrow is our last day—last, but certainly not least!

May 14th - Conquering the Crown: Summiting Umling La at 19,024 Ft

Day 6 was the one we had all been waiting for—the day we would stand higher than the Everest Base Camp. We woke up with a mix of nerves and excitement, knowing we were about to attempt a summit of the highest motorable road in the world. After a light breakfast to keep us agile at altitude, the RE Himalayans and the Innova Crysta were fired up and ready for history.

​The Road Less Traveled

​Our journey began with a thrill, as our lead driver—affectionately known as Dorje ji—took us on an intense off-roading detour before we hit the main Chisumle road. This wasn't just a drive; it was a rugged expedition through the cold desert. With no road markings and nothing but the vast, barren wilderness around us, it felt like we were truly off the grid. We stopped frequently to capture "once-in-a-lifetime" shots of the bikes and the Innova kicking up dust against the stark Himalayan backdrop. The raw, exquisite beauty of this terrain is something pictures can barely do justice.

​Standing Tall at Umling La

​The moment we crested the final climb and saw the sign for Umling La at 19,024 ft, the energy was electric. Summiting this pass was breathtaking—both literally and figuratively! The air is incredibly thin, but the sense of achievement was thick. We celebrated with a group push-up challenge to test our lungs, took our official certificates, and snapped plenty of photos with the milestone markers. However, at nearly 20,000 feet, the weather is unforgiving. Knowing the risks for the kids, we kept our stay at the top brief but meaningful before starting our descent.

​Drifts and Decibels

​Adventure followed us on the way back, but this time it was in the Innova Crysta. Dorje ji decided to give the ladies and the kids a taste of some rally-style excitement, performing some safe but heart-pounding drifting on the dry river bed. The screams of delight from the kids and the laughter from the group echoed through the valley. It was a fantastic way to break the tension of the high-altitude climb and add a bit of "stunt" flair to our road trip chronicles.

​Hanle's Window to the Universe

​Before heading back to our home base, we made a stop at the MACE (Major Atmospheric Cherenkov Experiment) station. This is a hub for Hanle’s world-class astro-research. We watched a crisp, fascinating video about the telescope and the research being conducted in this high-altitude "Dark Sky Reserve." It was a great educational moment for the kids, showing them that these mountains aren't just for adventure, but for looking deep into the mysteries of the universe.

​Winding Down

​We made it back to the Homestay early, giving everyone some much-needed time to decompress. While the adults relaxed and swapped stories of the day's summit, the kids stayed high-energy, entertaining us with a competitive round of the upright water bottle challenge. As we settled in for the night, the reality of what we achieved today started to sink in. We didn't just take a road trip; we conquered the highest road on the planet.

From Movie Magic to Military Might: Day 5 to Hanle

​Day 5 began at the edge of the world's most famous blue lake. After a hearty breakfast to ward off the Pangong chill, we hit the road again, transitioning from the cinematic beauty of the lake to the somber history of our borders, ending in the stargazing capital of India.

​3 Idiots and Iconic Frames

​You can’t visit Pangong and not pay homage to the movie that made it a household name. We stopped at the lakeside "3 Idiots" point, where the kids and adults alike had a blast posing with the famous yellow scooters and the "butt chairs." The azure water in the background provided the perfect cinematic canvas. It was a lighthearted, fun way to say goodbye to Pangong before our journey turned towards the deep history of the region.

​The Rezang La War Memorial

Our next stop was the Rezang La Memorial, a place that demands respect. Guided by Indian Army personnel, we learned about the 1962 Indo-China war and the legendary bravery of Major Shaitan Singh and his 113 soldiers who fought to the last man. The experience was profoundly moving, especially the mini-documentary in the AV hall. The haunting background score, paired with the deep, resonant narration of Amitabh Bachchan, gave us literal goosebumps. Seeing the massive National Flag standing tall against the barren mountains left us all with a heavy sense of pride and gratitude.

​Chasing the Horizon: The Road to Hanle

​After a quick lunch, we experienced what can only be described as a biker’s paradise. The roads toward Hanle, maintained by the BRO and supported by the PM Gram Sadak Yojana, were "buttery" smooth and incredibly inviting. On the RE Himalayan 410s, we finally had the chance to open up the throttle, with speeds touching 120 kmph on the long, straight stretches. The vast, open plains of the Changthang plateau made the ride feel like something out of a dream—limitless, fast, and exhilarating.

​A Night Under a Million Stars

We finally rolled into Hanle and checked into the Vajra Homestay. The local host family was incredibly courteous, welcoming us with steaming tea and coffee that hit the spot. After a couple of hours of rest and a sumptuous home-cooked dinner, we stepped outside for the main event. Hanle is a Dark Sky Reserve, and the view was breathtaking. We looked up to see an infinite blanket of stars and the Milky Way stretching across the sky. The kids were wide-eyed, mesmerized by the twinkling canopy above.

​Looking Ahead

​As we retreated to our cozy rooms, the air was thick with anticipation. We made sure to get plenty of rest because tomorrow is the big one: we set off for Umling La, the highest motorable road in the world. It’s going to be legendary!

Day 4 (13th May) Ice, Snow, and Sapphire Waters: The Journey to Pangong Lake

​Day 4 was a true test of grit and a celebration of the raw, untamed beauty of the Himalayas. We traded the sandy floor of Nubra Valley for the high-altitude chills as we made our way toward the legendary Pangong Lake. The transition in weather and terrain reminded us exactly why this region is called the "Land of High Passes."

​Himank Viewpoint

​Our first pitstop of the morning was the Himank Viewpoint. It was the perfect spot to pause for some quick captures of the expansive valley below. The "Himank" personnel—the brave souls of the Border Roads Organization—are the reason these roads exist, and standing at this viewpoint gave us a moment to appreciate the engineering marvels they maintain. We snapped some group shots against the dramatic mountain backdrop, ensuring our cameras were ready for the even more spectacular sights to come.

​The Shyok River Ice-Water Challenge

​As we followed the road toward Pangong, we came upon a breathtaking stretch of the Shyok Riverside. The water was crystal clear and looked inviting—until you touched it! We couldn't resist a bit of a group challenge: an "ice-water-bucket" style face dip in the freezing, flowing river. It was an absolute shock to the system, but the adrenaline rush was incredible! We spent over an hour there, laughing at each other's reactions and letting the kids explore the banks. It was a refreshing, if slightly numbing, highlight that kept our spirits high for the long climb ahead.

​Riding Through the Snowfall

​The final stretch toward Pangong Lake was where the adventure truly intensified. The temperature plummeted, and the wind began to howl through the mountain passes. As we navigated the tight, curvy roads on the RE Himalayans and the Innova, we were suddenly met with a 3km patch of snowfall. Riding a motorcycle through falling snow is an experience that is both beautiful and demanding. The landscape turned into a monochromatic masterpiece in minutes, adding a layer of thrill (and a bit of a chill!) to our journey that we hadn't expected.

​Pangong Lake: A Frozen Beauty

We finally pulled into our stay near Pangong Lake around 5:00 PM. After a quick meal to warm our bones, we rushed the kids down to the lakeside. Even under the heavy, windy sky, the lake’s vastness is hypnotic. We managed to grab some stunning photos, but the "windy chills" quickly reminded us who was in charge. The weather was exceptionally tough, making it clear that staying out in the open wasn't an option with the little ones.

​Seeking Shelter

By evening, the biting cold and relentless wind forced us back into the safety of our rooms. It was a night for being thoughtful and prioritizing rest; the altitude and the elements had taken their toll on everyone. We huddled up, shared some warm drinks, and went to sleep early, knowing that we needed to be fully recharged for whatever Day 5 has in store for our crew.

Dust, Dynasty, and the Borderline: Day 3 Road Trip

​Day 3 was, in every sense, the ultimate road trip. We experienced the full spectrum of Ladakhi terrain—from "buttery" smooth asphalt to sandy trails, winding curves, and those nerve-wracking 'Weak Bridges' where we had to wait for one vehicle to pass at a time. For the riders on the RE Himalayans, it was a pure masterclass in off-roading, while the Innova Crysta handled the changing textures with ease.

​Shyok War Memorial

​Our first stop was the Shyok War Memorial, a poignant reminder of the region's strategic importance. While the adults took a moment of silence at the memorial wall—reading the names of the martyrs etched in stone—the kids enjoyed the various military attractions within the premises. It’s a beautifully maintained site that balances a sense of pride with a playground-like fascination for the little ones. The backdrop, with the rugged mountains towering over the names of the brave, made for some of the most meaningful photographs of our journey so far.

​Turtuk Village: A Riverside Lunch

​By the time we rolled into Turtuk, it was lunchtime. We found a perfect spot near a rushing river, framed by a picturesque bridge and smooth river stones. After we refueled with a quick lunch, the kids stayed busy playing with the pebbles and exploring the riverbank. Turtuk feels like a different world; it was only opened to tourists in 2010, and its unique Balti culture is evident everywhere. The mix of the flowing water, the rustic bridge, and the sheer isolation of the village made for a very peaceful midday break.

​Yagbo Palace Museum

​Deep inside the village, where crystal-clear canal water literally flows through every household, we visited the Yagbo Palace Museum. This wasn't just a museum tour; we were actually briefed by the last King of the Yagbo dynasty himself! He shared the fascinating history of the Baltistan era and the lineage of his family. Standing in an ancient palace, surrounded by historic artifacts and artistic architecture while the "King" told us stories, was a surreal experience. We made sure to capture a few photos with him to remember this brush with living history.

​The Last Village: Thang

​The ride continued toward Thang, often called "The Last Village" of India. The journey there was heartwarming; we shared high-fives with local school children who were walking home as we rumbled past on our bikes. Once at the viewpoint, a guide provided binoculars to show us the Line of Control (LoC). We could clearly see the bunkers, Indian Army camps perched on high ridges, the "No Man's Land," and even Pakistani Army posts. Standing there with the Indian Flag flying high was a moment of immense national pride for both the kids and the adults.

​Empowered Souvenirs and the Journey Back

​Before leaving Thang, we spent some time with the local shopkeepers. It was inspiring to see a community driven by women empowerment; the local sellers were incredibly polite, charming, and untouched by modern commercialism. We picked up a few local items as keepsakes of the border. The two-hour drive back to the Summer Retreat was a race against the sun, and we pulled in just in time for dinner. The dining hall was filled with laughter as we recounted the day's stories from the road and the trip, eventually heading to bed to prep for another early start tomorrow.

Scaling Heights and Shifting Sands: Day 2 to Nubra Valley

Day 2 kicked off early, fueled by the crisp mountain air and the thrill of heading into the heart of the high-altitude desert. With our gear packed into the Innova Crysta and the RE Himalayan 410s warmed up, we left Leh behind, aiming for the legendary Nubra Valley.

​A Winter Wonderland Pitstop

​Before reaching the major landmarks, we were greeted by a stunning snow-clad hillside that we simply couldn't pass by. We pulled over for an impromptu pitstop, and it turned out to be one of the highlights for the little ones. The kids were absolutely thrilled, diving into the fresh powder and engaged in a full-blown snowball fight. There’s something magical about playing in natural snow at this altitude—the air is pure, and the landscape looks like a postcard. It was a great way to break up the drive and keep the energy high before the serious climbing began.

​Conquering Khardungla Pass

​The ride then took us toward the mighty Khardungla Pass. Reaching the top felt like a massive achievement for our group. Navigating the steep switchbacks on the RE Himalayans was an adrenaline-pumping experience, while the Innova provided a steady climb for the rest of the crew. Standing at over 17,000 feet, surrounded by prayer flags fluttering in the biting wind, it was hell of a moment. The oxygen is thin, but the sense of "top of the world" accomplishment is thick—it’s a milestone every traveler to Ladakh treasures.

​ATV Thrills at Desert Himalaya Adventure Park

​Descending into the valley, the landscape shifted from white snow to golden dust. We stopped at the Desert Himalaya Adventure Park for a dose of high-octane fun. We took to the ATV, tearing across the rugged terrain, which was a fantastic change of pace from the steady highway cruising. Meanwhile, the kids found their own slice of heaven on the trampolines, burning off their endless energy with the Himalayan peaks as their backdrop. It was the perfect blend of adventure and family fun in a truly unique setting.

​Diskit Monastery

​Next, we visited the serene Diskit Monastery, the oldest and largest Buddhist monastery in the Nubra Valley. The sight of the 106-foot tall Maitreya Buddha statue facing down the Shyok River is absolutely iconic. The peaceful vibes and the intricate Tibetan architecture provided the perfect backdrop for some "content creation" sessions. We spent time capturing candid shots of the group and filming a few reels to capture the spiritual essence of the place. The gold on the statue glimmering against the blue sky made every frame look professional.

​Ending the Day

​By the time we wrapped up at Diskit, it was already past 7:00 PM. With the light fading, we decided to skip the Hunder Sand Dunes for the evening and headed straight to our stay at Summer Retreat in Nubra Valley. We were greeted with a warm welcome and a spread of delicious, steaming hot dinner that hit the spot after a long day of riding and exploring. What'snext is even more interesting!!

High Altitudes and Higher Spirits: Our Day 1 in Leh (9th May)

Exploring the rugged beauty of Ladakh is a dream, but doing it with a pack of three couples and three kids makes it an unforgettable adventure. We set out in a sturdy Innova Crysta, flanked by the rhythmic thumping of two RE Himalayan 410s, ready to conquer the winding roads.

​Gurudwara Shri Pathar Sahib

​Our first stop was the serene Gurudwara Shri Pathar Sahib, located about 25 miles from Leh. Built in 1517 to commemorate Guru Nanak Dev’s visit to the region, the site holds a deep spiritual calm. We marveled at the legendary boulder, which bears the imprint of the Guru’s back, untouched by the demon who allegedly threw it. The kids were fascinated by the story, and as a group, we took a moment to appreciate the "Langar" served by the Indian Army. The hot tea and prasad were the perfect fuel for the chilly morning, providing a sense of peace before the more rugged parts of our journey began.

​Magnetic Hill

​Just a short drive away, we hit the famous Magnetic Hill. This "gravity-defying" stretch of road is a must-see. We parked the Innova in the marked box, shifted to neutral, and watched in disbelief as the car appeared to roll uphill on its own! The riders on the RE Himalayans had a blast testing the phenomenon too. While it’s technically an optical illusion caused by the surrounding landscape, the experience felt like pure magic. I also ventured for a little off roading nearby this spot! (Got stuck as well for sometime as the trye sank in the sand 😉)

​Sangam Viewpoint

​Next, we reached the Sangam Viewpoint, the breathtaking confluence of the Indus and Zanskar Rivers. From our vantage point, the distinction was striking: the emerald green of the Indus meeting the muddy, powerful grey of the Zanskar. It’s a powerful reminder of nature’s scale. We spent quite a bit of time here taking photos with the bikes and the group. The contrast of the two rivers snaking through the brown, desolate mountains is a sight that no camera can truly capture, but we certainly tried!

​Hall of Fame

​The Hall of Fame was undoubtedly the emotional anchor of our day. While it serves as a museum dedicated to the brave soldiers of the Indian Army, our visit was elevated to another level. We had the incredible honor of hearing about the Kargil War directly from an officer who had fought on those very frontlines. Hearing him describe the sheer grit required to battle at those altitudes gave us literal goosebumps. It wasn't just a history lesson; it was a profound encounter with courage that left the entire group, even the children, in silent awe of the sacrifices made for the nation. We got a little sounevir as well alogn with the entry tickets😁

​Shanti Stupa

​As the sun began to dip, we headed up to the Shanti Stupa. This white-domed monument overlooks the entire Leh valley, and the panoramic views are simply stellar. The steep climb up the stairs was a bit of a workout at this altitude, but reaching the top as the lights of Leh started to glimmer below made it worth every step. The atmosphere was incredibly meditative. We sat by the prayer wheels, watching the sky turn shades of pink and orange, feeling a deep sense of gratitude for the journey so far.

​Wrapping Up

​We ended our day with a stroll through the Leh Main Market. The vibrant energy of the stalls selling Tibetan handicrafts, silver jewelry, and warm woolens was the perfect end to a long day. After grabbing some local snacks and souvenirs, we headed back to the hotel, exhausted but buzzing with excitement for Day 2.